The Cruisin Cajun Birthday Rally in Rayne

It's hard to believe...but it's time to eat again...first the Cajun breakfast (eggs, grits and 2 biscuits!!), then lunch with Brenda and "the girls", and now, time for dinner....shrimp and grits, salad, grilled veggies, garlic bread and pumpkin roll

It's been great to see everyone. They’ve all been amused hearing about our adventures with the crippled slide and drunken hot tub parties. There's nothing quite like 4 days at John's Shed followed by 3 days of Rallying.... Fortunately, we only have a 5 hours drive on Sunday--we're going to stay in Mobile, so with any luck, we can catch an afternoon nap when we get to the campground.

Lunch at Huey and Katie's!!!! Unbelievably good!!

The Crawfish Rally

Things were pretty quiet for the first hour of our drive on Saturday morning. We kept waiting for another strange noise....but, everything was fine..and we made it to the Rally (just in time for the Bloody Mary party!). It was great to see everyone--and they loved hearing our tale.
We had a great time at the Rally--crawfish was great. We sat by Cheryl and she, once again, showed us the art of 'sucking heads'. She is such a trip---SO funny!! We asked if "size matters"--just in case you're wondering--it doesn't....

We left Rayne on Sunday and got to John and Brenda's that afternoon. Last night we had dinner at the new "Cajun-Mex" restaurant in town. Cajun/Mex was a new concept for us--the food and margaritas were good and the company great.

Today, we joined E.J. and Sharon at a restaurant here in Napoleonville that used to be the site of E.J.'s dad's drug store.

It looks like an old 50’s soda shop…adorable.

Stranded!

On the road from Mobile to Louisiana for the Cajun Rally in Rayne, LA. We drove about 1 1/2 hours and were on 1-10 when John said, "Something sounds funny"....I insisted that it was the pavement--and we drove on. But, John, fortunately, wasn't buying the pavement story. So, when we saw the Rest area sign, we pulled off. It was just before the Louisiana border and had a lovely information center, set in a forest of pine trees.

When we got out, it was obvious that we had a problem. The rear end of the motorhome had no air--so the coach was almost sitting on the tires. John immediately knew what the problem was--it had happened once before --three years ago. The bolt on the Ride Height assembly sheered off--so we lost air pressure in the tag axle. But we had hope! In his infinite wisdom, John had gotten a spare bolt after our last failure. So, we pulled out some old clothes--since he had to crawl under the motorhome --and he was able to replace the bolt. We felt so great--until we turned the key and the coach didn't air up! Turns out that when the bolt failed, the coach dropped on the air bags, puncturing them and damaging the valve assembly! We were stuck--with no air pressure on the rear, we couldn't continue to drive. So, we called our Roadside Assistance company. They took our info and told us that they'd have someone come out to tow us. Well--turns out that with no air pressure in the rear-we couldn't get a standard wrecker. By this time, we were working with one of the Roadside Assistance supervisors--who spent hours trying to find a tow company anywhere in Louisiana or Mississippi with the proper equipment (they needed something called a landau or a low-boy) and the willingness to tow us. Well, even though they could find companies with the equipment, not one of them was willing to take on the risk of towing us with no air pressure.

So, there we were--stuck in the rest area with an un-driveable, un-towable house on wheels. John got ahold of the chassis manufacturer and they searched for a local mobile mechanic. At last, they found a local truck repair place and dispatched two mechanics. They came out late in the afternoon, quickly diagnosed the problem and started to make phone calls...hours later, they told us that they hadn't been able to find the parts....but would start again the next day. It was 5PM, the Roadside Assist people had come up with no towing options and we were at the mercy of these two guys that looked like they came out of the movie "Deliverance". We were able to pull over to the back of the rest area where they actually had motorhome pull-offs. No hook-ups, but we had our generator and a quiet place to spend the night. They had picnic tables and the setting was quite lovely. We decided to make the best of it and had happy hour!

The next morning, "Daryl and Daryl" showed up and pulled off the old parts....and went on an all day search for replacements...at $170/hour!!!!! They didn't reappear until about 3PM....we had set our drop-dead departure time as 4:30--with a 3 hour drive ahead of us to get to Rayne, we didn't want to arrive in the dark. Well,,,,the time dragged by...and we kept hearing awful sounds...hammering under the motorhome (the parts didn't fit exactly--something about the connections....so they were hammering on the air bag to get it into place!...not exactly confidence building). They didn't finish until 6PM--and at that point, the only thing we wanted to do was drink copious amounts of wine. The coach appeared to be airing up and we decided that we'd take off the next morning--and try to catch the last day of the rally.

Cajuns!

We had our giant send-off with the Cajuns-- a huge pot of gumbo chock full of crab and shrimp, potato salad, bread pudding. In typical Cajun fashion, they pulled about 8 couples together and made it look effortless. It was both Katie and Cheryl's birthdays- so I bought a red velvet cake for them. They were thrilled.

Jerry Lee Lewis and the Delta Blues Museum

Jean's journal continues..

Another beautiful morning and nothing to rush about for. We decided to go along to the next village, Farraday, to the Delta Blues Museum.

Jerry Lee Lewis was born in Farraday and a 77-year old lady who has lived there all her life gave us the tour.

She was great and had lots of background information and snippets of gossip which brought it all to life. This was all free and much more enjoyable than we'd expected. We were surprised at how many of the old singers were remembered here - Conway Twitty, Clarence 'Frogman' Henry, Percy Sledge etc etc. We had lunch in a diner our guide had recommended - BBQ chicken, candied yams, beans, potato salad and coleslaw with ice-packed cokes to drink - proper Southern food and very enjoyable.

After lunch, we spent the afternoon just lounging about - me in the sun and the other guys in the shade as usual. At about 4, we all (including Chloe) headed to Fat Mama's Tamales Restaurant which we'd read about in the guidebook. Tamales are sort of cornbread wraps filled with chilli con carne but we had the 'Gringo Pie' which was 3 tamales topped with more chilli, jalapenos and onion - different and very nice.

We sat outside on the patio and Gordon, John & Debs had 'Knock you Naked' Margueritas but I only had a light beer, not being a Margueritas fan. Finished the evening watching the lazy river and then watched a movie called "Blaze" about a Southern politician based in Louisiana.

The Rain in Raine...the Brits try "Crawfish"

Jean meets crawfish in her continuing story of our trip..
When we were in Florida, we overheard a man telling his wife "It's not that I feel dizzy - just top-heavy!" Well, we were certainly feeling top-heavy this morning!

At lunchtime, we headed over to the main hall to watch the preparations for the great crawfish feast.

It began with the boiling of the crawfish - thousands of pounds of crawfish were emptied into huge baskets and then dumped into boiling water and it was all carried out like a military operation.

(We finally got Jean to take a peak at the crawfish after they were boiled--her reaction was classic "Jean")

Before eating, crawfish races were held during which many of the Cajuns placed bets on the outcome.

(For the second year in a row- I got to be on the betting table- taking bets and handing out the payouts)

We had a great laugh and a great meal though have to admit it was a lot of effort for a tiny piece of crawfish from each one. We were dressed in our crawfish-decorated aprons, courtesy of Brenda - just as well as we were in such a mess. Actually, we looked quite smart compared to some who made do with just a Wallmart carrier, and most people were in red and white, the Cajun colours. It was all great fun and a very different experience for us Brits.
(Cheryl taught the boys how to "suck the heads" of the crawfish)

The rest of the afternoon was spent chilling out in the RV - the thunder, lightening and rain had started again so we were in no hurry to go anywhere. Brem & Dipper left in the afternoon as they had some family function to go to so we said our goodbyes and promised to keep in touch.

At about 6, we once again braved the horrendous weather and headed to the main hall for the evening entertainment. We started with a sing-along where the 'stars' lip-synched to popular country and western songs. The theme of the night was Mexico so many were in Mexican clothing and as no food was provided in the evening, the women took along sandwiches, potato crisps etc. One guy dressed as Uncle Sam mimed to 'God Bless the USA', a very corny song about how proud they were to be American. It brought the house down and everyone was standing with hands on hearts or waving their arms in the air. I couldn't help wishing that there was that level of patriotism in our country - the nearest we get is 'Abide With Me' sung at the beginning of the soccer cup final!

Anyway, it was another fun night though we got absolutely soaked on the way back to the RV and arrived to find we were parked in a lake! After a couple of renditions of "The Rain in Raine" we settled down for the night.

The Brits and the Cajuns at the Crawfish Rally

Jean's story of the Crawfish Rally - my comments in italics
Another road trip. We left New Orleans at about 10.30 and headed over to Raine, Louisiana to the Cajun Crawfish Rally. There were lots of RVs at the site and the weather was worsening the closer we got. We registered for the rally and were parked in a huge field, and we met up with Brem & Dipper and several other Cajuns we'd met last time we were there. A mass lunch of crawfish etouffe, cole slaw and corn had been prepared which we all enjoyed.
After a while, we went back to the RV to get ready for the evening. The storm had now broken with a vengeance but as ever, at least the rain was warm - we rolled up our trouser legs and paddled over to the dance. It was lots of fun and outside the rain was horizontal but we all agreed it had been a great night.

Our table won big time--Jean got a Walmart gift certificate and I got a wine cooler!

John and Angelo hit the dance floor....

Mardi Gras Floats and Bourbon Street Antics

Jean's ongoing story of our trip....

Another lazy start and then we all headed over to the Mardi Gras museum which turned out to be quite a surprise. I had always been under the impression that the floats were made by the Krews - and was impressed at the level of professionalism and innovation they showed. It turns out however that each Krew member pays between $500 and $1500 to join their particular choice of Krew. The Captain decides on the theme of the float and then they approach this place where we visited to discuss the designs etc. Once decided upon, the floats can take up to a year to make!

The really expensive floats are made from fibre glass - costing up to $1500 per foot or at the other end of the scale, paper Mache floats can cost about $100 a foot. Neither of them work out particularly cheap. I was also surprised to learn that the Krew members buy their own beads, mugs etc to throws to the spectators.

There were some huge displays from past years to see, some of them very intricate with moving parts and many lights and we got the chance to dress up in some of the costumes for a photo shoot. It turned out to be a worthwhile trip.

After lunch, Debs and I had a short wander round the gift shops and then later we took a taxi down to Bourbon Street - the tourist spot. We've been there before so knew what to expect and there are certainly some sights to see.....

We caught this street act...pretty amazing-

We had gone to specifically see a Blues singer named Bryan Lee who was performing, live and free, in Co-Co's Bar.

He was brilliant and we had a great night. (Note- John has been a long time fan of Bryan Lee--known as the Braille Blues Daddy and this was the first time we've ever been in NOLA when he's been playing- what a treat!)

The Brits see the aftermath of Katrina

Jean's journal continues--the British view of Katrina..

After a late start, we decided to drive round the Garden District just to see some of the lovely houses there. Fortunately, this area wasn't too affected by Katrina structurally but the effects can be seen in the number of homes now up for sale, including La Belle Reve, the B&B we stayed in during our earlier visit to the city. Such a shame. We had lunch in the Babylon Cafe - Gordon had taken a fancy for iced tea, sweetened a la Southern States, but his sugar levels have been great while we've been away and he's looking and feeling well.

Then John, Gordon & I took the Katrina Tour which lasted three and a half hours (poor Debs did the laundry). At first I was impressed at how much had been done to restore the city to its former glory but this turned out to be only in the middle-class, more affluent areas. When we got to St Bernard Parish and the 9th Ward, where the poorer people used to live, it was almost untouched. Many of the houses were just wrecks and still showed the signs painted on the doors by the rescuers during the search for survivors. It was a disgrace! The guide said that part of the reason why many of the houses are untouched is because the inhabitants were unable to prove ownership, the houses having been passed down through generations. Government grants only provide a percentage of the cost of renovations and take months to come through and the poor folks haven't the funds needed to make up the shortfall.

There are rows and rows of empty slums with wood still lying around and the place looking like a bomb site. We were gob-smacked - America should hang its head in shame. There were some good people though - Walmart were straight out after the disaster struck with ice, blankets and provisions and they are generally held in high regard now. Brad Pitt & Angelina Jolie, who have a house in New Orleans, are building a whole street in one of the worst hit areas. The Cajuns brought out their little boats and rescued people from rooftops and the first soldiers on the scene were the Canadian Mounties!

What makes things worse is that NOBODY was held responsible for the breeching of the levees despite the fact that the foundations were only laid to 17' and not the recommended 25'. If the regulations had been followed, 1800 people may not have lost their lives. Our guide also reminded us that all the stuff in the museums had also been under water and much had been lost as well as some of the wildlife. As he was telling us about the rare birds, one of the bus passengers asked what had happened to them during Katrina..... he replied, quite straightfaced, that they had flown away!!

Gordon and I stayed in the city after the trip while John went back to meet up with Debs. We did a bit of shopping and then met up with them at Tujaques for a drink and some food. The evening rounded off in our private gazebo - and more wine.

Cocktails in New Orleans

Jean's journal continues...

Road trip - left John's shed and drove the 76 miles or so to New Orleans, stopping en-route to buy Subway rolls which were huge but good on an empty stomach. The RV site was situated in the French Quarter and had a lovely swimming pool, jacuzzi and laundry and we had our own gazebo fully enclosed by mosquito wire (just as well as Gordon and I were already covered in itchy bites, whether from the sand fleas in Foley or mosquito bites in Louisiana we weren't sure)

In the afternoon, we took the Cocktail Tour which was interesting. The guide took us to some very old bars and gave us the history of the place then recommended one or two cocktails for us to try.

One of our first stops was the Napoleon House. The building's first occupant, Nicholas Girod, offered his residence to Napoleon in 1821 as a refuge during his exile. Napoleon never made it, but the name stuck, and since then, the Napoleon House has become one of the most famous bars in America. Their signature drink is the “Pimms Cup". At the Napoleon House, they serve it with a cucumber – just the best summer refresher.

At Pirate’s Alley Café, I tried a “Green Fairy”, a concoction made with absinthe (130 proof). The Green Fairy is made by pouring absinthe over a sugar cube balanced on a slotted spoon over a tall glass. It’s followed by water poured over the sugar cube. The cube is then burned and crushed into the drink. A chemical reaction ensues- causing what appears to be fairies flying through the green liquid.

At Tujagues, the second oldest restaurant in New Orleans (1856), we tried a “Woodland Plantation Punch” (way too sweet) Originally an all men’s bar, there were no chairs. The men stood at the bar (and, not wanting to lose their place at the bar, would pee into the trough under the bar). Today, the bar is a great local hangout. (See below)

We also went The Court of Two Sisters and Muriel’s (which boasted a resident ghost and an upstairs room that was once a bordello).

It was tastefully decorated in an authentic style and we found it very interesting.
We also met quite a few 'characters' (check out 'my new best friend' who's toast was always "Cheers to Queers"! )

When the tour was over we went back to the restaurant in Napoleon House for muffulettas then came back to the site as it was in a rough part of town and not the place you would want to be out wandering late at night. We sat in the gazebo and drank some wine then had a fairly early night.

A Cajun Crab Feast!

Jean's story of our trip continues....

Dipper arrived early and he, Gordon & John loaded up the trailer and headed off to the coast to catch blue crabs. Their journey took an hour and a half and the fishing consisted of throwing in a line of pots baited with turkey necks then pulling them straight out again and unloading the crabs. In two hours, they had caught well over 100 but threw back about 20 or so of the smaller ones. Dipper steered the boat, Gordon pulled in the baskets and John unloaded the crabs. One of them bit right through the welder's glove he was wearing, breaking the skin on his hand.

In the meantime, Brenda, Debs and I drove to Houmas House, a former sugar cane plantation, which has been beautifully restored to its former glory.

We walked round the gardens in the beautiful sunshine, had lunch in the restaurant then bought a few souvenirs in the gift shop. Brenda rang Dipper and got the news that the crab catch had been a success so between them they rang about another five couples and a big crab feast was organised for the evening. This never ceases to amaze me about the Cajuns - they can rustle up food for 20 people at the drop of a hat without any panic or fretting. They are laid back, friendly and sociable and great people to have as friends.

On the way back to Brenda's place to meet up with the guys, we called briefly in the supermarket. I was in the back of the car and Debs and Brem got out and headed towards the door, not realising that I was locked in by the child-lock in the back. I knocked on the window but couldn't attract their attention and off they went! I could see the headlines in the local paper next day - "OLD BRITISH LADY FOUND SUFFOCATED IN HOT CAR" but eventually they came back to see where I was and I got released. What a laugh....

So, that evening we headed over to Brem & Dipper's house by the bayou to have a taste of Cajun-style Blue Crabs.

A large table had been set up on the porch which was laid with salads, baked potatoes and lots and lots of crabs - we dove in. What a mess it all made and I have to say the crabs were a lot of work for little reward - from my perspective at least though everybody else seemed to manage no bother and it was a great evening. We played music and sat round the fire again and a great night was had by all. Memory building!!

Check out Dippa's hand selected crabs--Katie got this one

Jambalya, Crawfish pie, file gumbo

Jean's story continues...

Back on the road heading towards Napoleonville, Louisiana where our Cajun friends John & Brenda (aka Brem &Dipper) live. Fascinating to note that diesel in Louisiana is only $1.99 a gallon (compared with £1 a litre back home). Anyway, Dipper has some land in Napoleonville on which is a huge shed where he parks his RV and this is always referred to as 'John's shed' and that is where we parked up for the next few days.

Late in the afternoon, Jeff, Dipper's son, came over and started preparing Jambalaya for the evening meal and then we were joined by Brem & Dipper later.

Dipper lit a log fire and we sat round it drinking wine and re-living old times. All the while the wind was picking up and after Brem, Dipper & Jeff had left, we watched the TV and found that a tornado was heading our way. John decided we should have an emergency plan and as he felt it would be better to be low on the ground (a motorhome could easily be picked up by the tornado), the plan was that if the worst came to the worst, we would head for the ditch behind John's Shed and lie down in there! John has a weather phone in the motorhome that rings through warnings of any imminent bad weather and twice later that night it rang. I spent a sleepless night wondering which would be the worst option - being carried away in the motorhome or lying in the dirty, stinking ditchwater behind the shed. In the event, the tornado passed us by and next day, the wind had settled and the sun was out. Phew!

Bob and Camille's Adventures in NOLA Continued...

The next morning, we met Brem and Dippa at Petunia’s for brunch. With a wait for a table, they offered drinks while we stood outside—alcoholic drinks only- no coffee, tea or soda! We had a rather disastrous brunch – the waitress messed up the order- and then was indignant about it. We did get to, once again, live vicariously through Bob and Camille’s adventures. After leaving us the night before, they went back to the Pirate’s Alley Café and met up with some real “pirates”…. Aarrrrghhh! They had another late night/early morning.

We said our goodbyes to Brem and Dippa and it was off to the “Katrina Tour”. The tour went through New Orleans- seeing the Convention Center, the Superdome, the Lakeview area, Gentilly (where most of the deaths occurred), New Orleans East, St Bernard’s Parish and the Lower 9th Ward. In the Lower 9th Ward, we saw the hordes of volunteers working on Musicians Village

After the tour, it was back to Tujagues for their famous beef brisket and gumbo – for a little appetizer. Then, we found a great local bar called Coops for dinner.

The next morning, things were a bit slow in Mudville. The New Orleans nightlife was finally catching up to Bob and Camille. But, with only one more day left, we dragged them off to continue exploring the city. We took the ferry to Algiers and saw Mardi Gras World. Then, we drove to the Garden District and had our favorite – a Domilice’s shrimp po-boy. We took in the IMAX “Hurricane in the Bayou” then, along with Chloe, went out for dinner at the Bulldog. Chloe’s first restaurant experience- and she did great!

A 6:25 A.M. flight on Sunday and Bob and Camille were back to the real world and we were back to a much more quiet lifestyle.