We learned a hard lesson after our lightning stike in Florida. The lightning didn't directly strike our motorhome--but hit about 2 feet from our coach and the campground power. John saw the strike - and Chloe and I heard it - you'll never forget the sound - it was like an explosion(Poor Chloe- she's not been the same since- terrified when she hears thunder or sees lightning).
We were fortunate that we had our surge protector attached to the campground post- but didn't realize what damage a close lightning strike could do to our coach. One of the engine ECM's (computer modules) was destroyed, our backup camera was damaged, our front step motor failed....a very costly strike, to say the least.
We've been amazed that after all of our FMCA and Spartan rallies and all of our research on motorhomes, we had never heard anyone talking about what to do during a lightning storm. So, we decided to do a bit of research to find out how to avoid the disaster that we had just lived through. We hope that this will prevent someone else from living through this horrible experience..
Here's what we found at the South East Trek Fun Club web site: (the entire article can be found at: http://www.setrekclub.com/Lightening%20&%20RV
"…treat lightning like a snake: if you see it or hear it take evasive measures…
The short version of the paper is If parked and a lightning storm is nearby, make sure the RV jacks are retracted and the shore power lines are disconnected and stored.
In the USA, central Florida experiences some 10-15 lightning strikes per sq. km./yr. Over the entire year, the highest frequency of cloud-to-ground lightning is in Florida between Tampa and Orlando. This is due to the presence, on many days during the year, of large moisture content in the atmosphere at low levels (below 5,000 feet), as well as high surface temperatures that produce strong sea breezes along the Florida coasts. The Rocky Mountain west has about two-thirds this activity. Half of the casualties of lightning strikes occur in open fields. The most common situation for a lightning death or injury in Florida was found NOT to be in the heaviest rain area with lots of flashes, but after or before the time when rain and lightning was the most intense. Essentially, the most dangerous times occur from a weak storm without too many flashes, at the edge of a larger storm, or early or late in the life of a storm. Much of a storm's lightning remains within the clouds, leaping from the negatively charged bottom of the clouds to the positively charged top. When an object on the ground, such as a tree, building or an RV, becomes positively charged, the lightning sparks to the ground. A bolt of lightning can be as great as 15 million volts.
Recreation Vehicles and Lightning What happens when lightning strikes a recreation vehicle? The answer, gleaned from anecdotal observations, is all the way from "nothing" to "Wow ! What a mess. . . my RV is a disaster." I have determined that few, if any, RVs get struck while mobile. They are mostly vulnerable when connected to shore power and/or when they have their jacks deployed without at least five inches of wood or some other insulator between the jacks and ground. I have noted that RVs are more susceptible to damage from induced lightning surges when connected to shore power and lightning hits nearby transformers. According to the NLSI, lightning's median amplitude is assumed to be about 20,000 Amps. Typically, a metal plate 3/16 inch thick will not be penetrated by that high of a current.
Some general recommendations for RV users include: If parked, make sure the RV jacks are retracted and the shore power lines are stored and disconnected. Do not store your power cable under your RV. Retract and store all deployed antenna. Disconnect external TV/Satellite antenna wiring. Reported incidents and related injuries make it clear that a person inside a fully enclosed metal vehicle must not be touching metallic objects connected to the outside of the vehicle. Door and window handles, radio dials, CB microphones, gearshifts, steering wheels and other inside-to-outside metal objects should be left alone during close-in lightning events. I suggest pulling off to the side of the road in a safe manner, turning on the emergency blinkers, turning off the engine, putting one's hands in one's lap, and waiting out the storm. Do not wash hands or take a shower during a storm. Do not get close to electrical appliances such as the TV or plug in laptop PCs. In no circumstances, during close-in lightning, should the passengers attempt to step off the RV to the ground in an attempt to find another shelter. Very dangerous Step Voltage and Touch Voltage situations are created when a "dual pathway to ground" is created. Lightning voltages will attempt to equalize and they may go through a person in order to do so. Do not get on the roof of your RV when a storm is nearby! Don't be an isolated tall object, and don't be connected to anything that may be an isolated tall object.
To further lower your odds, don't park your RV near the tallest trees or utility poles. Rubber tires provide zero safety from lightning. After all, lightning has traveled for miles through the sky: four or five inches of rubber are no insulation whatsoever. People should get into a safe shelter. If not possible, make sure all windows are closed and the "hands on laps" rule is observed. If you can't get to a safer location, avoid the most dangerous locations and activities. Avoid higher elevations, wide-open areas, tall isolated objects, and water-related activities. Avoid unprotected open structures like picnic pavilions, and rain shelters."
We hope that you take away some helpful information - thanks to the South East Trek Fun Club for this info from their web site...
Showing posts with label Motorhome Advice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Motorhome Advice. Show all posts
Friday, June 5, 2009
Thursday, August 14, 2008
New Carpeting!
With new carpeting being installed, we were officially homeless. With all of our furniture 
unbolted from the floor, we had to pack our bags and move into the local “Baymont Inn and Suites” in Decatur. (Note- the “Suites” part isn’t really a true “suite”—all you get is a bigger bathroom and a Jacuzzi tub). But, they did have free breakfast and wireless internet, so we managed to stay sane for the 3 day ordeal. At the end of the day, we’d check on the progress. It’s hard to imagine the amount of work involved in replacing carpeting in this tiny space. It was a bit like walking into one of those HGTV shows where everything is completely gutted. Newmar doesn’t make it easy either. Rather than install the carpeting after the cabinetry is in, they take the easy way (for them) and install the carpeting first- then install all of the sofas/cabinetry on top. 
We did learn an awful lot about carpet and tile care from the folks at Habegger. First, we realized that you really want to have someone who’s done this kind of work before to deal with any carpet replacement in a motorhome. But we also learned that for carpet care:
1. An annual cleaning is absolutely essential. And, it should be a hot water heat extraction cleaning process- not a dry cleaning. It actually re-sets the fibers in the carpet.
2. Once cleaned, it’s best to let it dry for at least 24 hours before walking on it (a little difficult when you’re full-time)
3. Find a reputable cleaner- the chain cleaners may not be your best bet.
4. With any carpet cleaning- even spot cleaning, the most important thing Is to make sure you remove all of the cleaner from the carpet. The residue, if left on the carpet, becomes a dirt magnet.
5. When you remove your shoes at the door and walk on the carpet in bare feet, you’re probably doing more harm. The oils on your feet are worse than the dirt from your shoes!
6. The best thing to do is leave your shoes at the door and wear socks or slippers. (Oh, are we going to become those horribly obnoxious people with a box of slippers at the door for our guests?) Well, at least for a while we are!
7. One of the absolute worst surfaces is asphalt – it will leave a residue on carpet and tile that actually causes a chemical reaction.
After 3 days, we came back to a brand new motorhome. It truly looks better than it did when we bought it new! The folks at Habegger did a great job. Of course, once we got the new carpet in, it was begging for a new area rug. And, wouldn’t you know, they had a beautiful oriental in their showroom. One of the major problems with our small space has been finding the right size oriental – they’re either too big or too small. With Habegger’s facilities, they were able to size the rug to “just right”.
unbolted from the floor, we had to pack our bags and move into the local “Baymont Inn and Suites” in Decatur. (Note- the “Suites” part isn’t really a true “suite”—all you get is a bigger bathroom and a Jacuzzi tub). But, they did have free breakfast and wireless internet, so we managed to stay sane for the 3 day ordeal. At the end of the day, we’d check on the progress. It’s hard to imagine the amount of work involved in replacing carpeting in this tiny space. It was a bit like walking into one of those HGTV shows where everything is completely gutted. Newmar doesn’t make it easy either. Rather than install the carpeting after the cabinetry is in, they take the easy way (for them) and install the carpeting first- then install all of the sofas/cabinetry on top. 
We did learn an awful lot about carpet and tile care from the folks at Habegger. First, we realized that you really want to have someone who’s done this kind of work before to deal with any carpet replacement in a motorhome. But we also learned that for carpet care:
1. An annual cleaning is absolutely essential. And, it should be a hot water heat extraction cleaning process- not a dry cleaning. It actually re-sets the fibers in the carpet.
2. Once cleaned, it’s best to let it dry for at least 24 hours before walking on it (a little difficult when you’re full-time)
3. Find a reputable cleaner- the chain cleaners may not be your best bet.
4. With any carpet cleaning- even spot cleaning, the most important thing Is to make sure you remove all of the cleaner from the carpet. The residue, if left on the carpet, becomes a dirt magnet.
5. When you remove your shoes at the door and walk on the carpet in bare feet, you’re probably doing more harm. The oils on your feet are worse than the dirt from your shoes!
6. The best thing to do is leave your shoes at the door and wear socks or slippers. (Oh, are we going to become those horribly obnoxious people with a box of slippers at the door for our guests?) Well, at least for a while we are!
7. One of the absolute worst surfaces is asphalt – it will leave a residue on carpet and tile that actually causes a chemical reaction.
After 3 days, we came back to a brand new motorhome. It truly looks better than it did when we bought it new! The folks at Habegger did a great job. Of course, once we got the new carpet in, it was begging for a new area rug. And, wouldn’t you know, they had a beautiful oriental in their showroom. One of the major problems with our small space has been finding the right size oriental – they’re either too big or too small. With Habegger’s facilities, they were able to size the rug to “just right”.
Monday, July 21, 2008
Fire Safety
Well, we came back from the FMCA conference with a bag full of fire safety equipment. John went to a two hour seminar about emergency preparedness in a motorhome. Mac, "the fire guy", made a believer out of John and after having had several friends motorhomes go up in smoke, literally, we decided that we should have a Fire Emergency Plan (as well as $170 in new fire extinguishers, smoke detectors, and even a glass breaking hammer!)
Amazingly, the motorhome manufacturer doesn't provide you with a fire extinguisher capable of dealing with the most common motorhome fire - electrical caused by the 12 volt wiring (most often in the dashboard). We also have had friends who had their motorhome go up in flames from an electical short in their refrigerator. Needless to say, this got our attention.
So, today, John installed our new fire extinguishers - in the entryway, kitchen and bedroom, added a smoke detector to the front of the coach, and added detectors in the cargo compartments --then we ran through our escape plan.
Check out this link for more info on fire safety--it could save your life!
http://www.rvtravel.com/publish/firerv.shtml
Amazingly, the motorhome manufacturer doesn't provide you with a fire extinguisher capable of dealing with the most common motorhome fire - electrical caused by the 12 volt wiring (most often in the dashboard). We also have had friends who had their motorhome go up in flames from an electical short in their refrigerator. Needless to say, this got our attention.
So, today, John installed our new fire extinguishers - in the entryway, kitchen and bedroom, added a smoke detector to the front of the coach, and added detectors in the cargo compartments --then we ran through our escape plan.
Check out this link for more info on fire safety--it could save your life!
http://www.rvtravel.com/publish/firerv.shtml
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