Jean's most brilliant day- Bushwackers at Pirate's Cove

Jean's most brilliant day...her journal of our trip continues...

A brilliant day, in every way. After a lazy start, Gordon and I headed over to the beach and for 2 hours sat watching the Gulf of Mexico in the hot sunshine. We watched squadrons of pelicans drifting by on the thermals and diving birds crashing briefly into the sea then rising again and flying off. We were completely alone on the white sand though there was a beach bar and showers etc nearby.

At about 1.30 we headed back to the RV and at about 3, Gary pitched up to take us to the Pirates Bar. Gary lives on a very exclusive island named Ono Island where the homes cost in excess of $1million. He led the way past some beautiful houses to his place which he shares with his business partner. Wow - what a place - we were blown away! We went up a flight of bleached wooden stairs and Gary left us to look around while he went to get changed - the house was fabulous, very comfortable but tasteful and with a view overlooking the ocean. There was a deck leading from the fitness and entertainment room to the swimming pool and beyond that, another deck leading to the boat - a beautiful 32' cruiser with white leather upholstery.

We got aboard, he lowered the boat lift and we were off. Oh my, this is how to live!!

Chloe, surprisingly, seemed to love it especially when Gary picked up speed and she felt the wind in her little face.

We spotted some dolphins en route and after about 20 minutes, pulled into Pirates Cove, a divey little bar set right on the beach.

There were quite a few dogs around and a sign hung above a trough of water stating IF YOU DON'T WASH YOUR FEET IN OUR WATER, WE WON'T PEE IN YOUR DRINKS!

We had Bushwackers - Kahlua, Malibu and something that tasted like ice-cream - maybe it was but whatever was in them, they nearly blew our heads off!

One of the dogs roaming around was a huge Bull Mastiff who apparently lived up the road but called into the bar most days. He seemed to regard it as part of his patch and at that size, who was going to argue with him?

We left at about 6.30 just as the sun was setting and the whole scene was breathtaking.

Gary was leaving for Birmingham the next day so we said our goodbyes and promised to send photos - how kind of him to treat us to all that on such a short friendship - Southerners can be so hospitable.

Supper was at Tacky Jacks, a semi-dive bar where we sat on the deck overlooking a lake and then it was back to the RV site where we sat in one of the Florida rooms and drank some wine. A fabulous day that I shall remember for a long time.

Jean falls in love with Alabama....her journal continues (My comments in italics)

Road trip! Left lovely Natchez at about 9 a.m. for a 324 mile trip to the Gulf Shores. Stopped briefly on the Alabama border at a beautiful rest stop then found our way to Orange Beach, which is right on the Alabama/Florida border.
When we were at the Cajun rally, a company had been handing out free Margueritas as a promo for this new RV site. Debs had chatted to one of the guys, Gary, and got herself (and us) a free stay and this was the site we were now headed for. (Note- Buena Vista on the Beach--one of the most gorgeous motorhome resorts we've ever seen)

It was a brand new resort and had a lot going for it - each plot had a beautiful, lavishly furnished stone built cottage where owners of RVs could sleep, cook, etc while their RV was parked securely outside.

The plots are all built around a lake and plans include a large pool with Jacuzzi etc but when we stayed, we were one of only 2 RVs. It was right opposite the white-sandy beach though and we were sure we'd struck lucky.

After about an hour, Gary showed up - he was from Birmingham, Alabama, in his late 30s probably, quite dishy and very laid back and friendly. He offered to show us round so we all piled into his SUV and off we went. Orange Beach was a gorgeous place, right on the edge of the sea with white sand and million dollar homes. Gary pointed out the best restaurants and of more interest to us, the best dives. He then offered to meet us the next day and take us to a particularly good dive in his boat. Can't wait!

Jerry Lee Lewis and the Delta Blues Museum

Jean's journal continues..

Another beautiful morning and nothing to rush about for. We decided to go along to the next village, Farraday, to the Delta Blues Museum.

Jerry Lee Lewis was born in Farraday and a 77-year old lady who has lived there all her life gave us the tour.

She was great and had lots of background information and snippets of gossip which brought it all to life. This was all free and much more enjoyable than we'd expected. We were surprised at how many of the old singers were remembered here - Conway Twitty, Clarence 'Frogman' Henry, Percy Sledge etc etc. We had lunch in a diner our guide had recommended - BBQ chicken, candied yams, beans, potato salad and coleslaw with ice-packed cokes to drink - proper Southern food and very enjoyable.

After lunch, we spent the afternoon just lounging about - me in the sun and the other guys in the shade as usual. At about 4, we all (including Chloe) headed to Fat Mama's Tamales Restaurant which we'd read about in the guidebook. Tamales are sort of cornbread wraps filled with chilli con carne but we had the 'Gringo Pie' which was 3 tamales topped with more chilli, jalapenos and onion - different and very nice.

We sat outside on the patio and Gordon, John & Debs had 'Knock you Naked' Margueritas but I only had a light beer, not being a Margueritas fan. Finished the evening watching the lazy river and then watched a movie called "Blaze" about a Southern politician based in Louisiana.

Exploring Natchez

Jean's story continues...

A beautiful morning with the river moving along lazily. It is very wide in comparison to British rivers and there is quite a large amount of barge traffic - huge vessels, long and wide, and pushed from the back by white tugs. John mentioned that there were a lot less this visit than previously - a sign of the recession perhaps? - but we still saw quite a few and they all made you stop and stare.

In the late morning, we crossed the bridge and signed up for the Natchez tour. At $20 each, we thought it quite expensive for a one-hour bus tour but it was nevertheless very enjoyable and informative. Natchez used to be a huge trading post for goods being taken down river to New Orleans, and from there to the rest of the world, and the traders would stop here en route.

There is a place called Natchez-under-the-hill where, we were told, in the olden days every sort of depravity could be found. Murder was a daily occurrence and prostitution, drunkenness and gambling were rife. At the top of the hill lived the wealthy merchants who had made their money through cotton and sugar cane. They lived in fabulously affluent houses surrounded by lush gardens and furnished lavishly with European artefacts. There are still about 60 of them standing today, many of them converted into B&Bs but still in beautiful condition.

The road leading from Natchez-Under-The-Hill to the upper part of town is named Canal Street and we were told that originally, this was a water-filled canal with drawbridges and at night, these would be pulled up to stop the riff-raff gaining access to the affluent part of town. It's a beautiful city, if a little sleepy.

After the tour, we drove down to Natchez-under-the-hill for lunch and against our better judgement, we opted for burgers. From past experience, we knew that they would be huge but hey - you can't come to the US and not have a burger! True to form, we all regretted it later and our plans for dinner went up in smoke as we were all too stuffed. The weather was sunny and in the high 70s so the rest of the day was spent sitting outside the RV watching the river drift by. "Sometimes I sets and thunks & sometimes, I just sets"or as Gordon said "I's dun thunkin' - I's jest sittin"

Watching the river flow...the lazy Mississippi

Jean's story continues as we head to Mississippi...

Off to Natchez, Mississippi and today the weather was 73 degrees and sunny. After quite a bit of trouble leaving the camp site as everything was so wet, we finally made the road at about 10 and headed along Highway 61 - "The Blues Highway" - towards Baton Rouge. The journey took about three and a half hours. Arriving in Natchez, we saw a huge bridge over the Mississippi with one side in Louisiana and the other in Mississippi. We were staying on the Louisiana side at a beautiful site on the banks of the river

After parking up, Debs and I went to the local WalMart where the check-out operator was intrigued to know what on earth we were going to do with all the vegetables. We were having roast veggies (named by John & Debs as 'Veggies Gordone') but she was obviously another junk food eater. We were glad of some plain food after all the rich Cajun food we'd had recently.

The Rain in Raine...the Brits try "Crawfish"

Jean meets crawfish in her continuing story of our trip..
When we were in Florida, we overheard a man telling his wife "It's not that I feel dizzy - just top-heavy!" Well, we were certainly feeling top-heavy this morning!

At lunchtime, we headed over to the main hall to watch the preparations for the great crawfish feast.

It began with the boiling of the crawfish - thousands of pounds of crawfish were emptied into huge baskets and then dumped into boiling water and it was all carried out like a military operation.

(We finally got Jean to take a peak at the crawfish after they were boiled--her reaction was classic "Jean")

Before eating, crawfish races were held during which many of the Cajuns placed bets on the outcome.

(For the second year in a row- I got to be on the betting table- taking bets and handing out the payouts)

We had a great laugh and a great meal though have to admit it was a lot of effort for a tiny piece of crawfish from each one. We were dressed in our crawfish-decorated aprons, courtesy of Brenda - just as well as we were in such a mess. Actually, we looked quite smart compared to some who made do with just a Wallmart carrier, and most people were in red and white, the Cajun colours. It was all great fun and a very different experience for us Brits.
(Cheryl taught the boys how to "suck the heads" of the crawfish)

The rest of the afternoon was spent chilling out in the RV - the thunder, lightening and rain had started again so we were in no hurry to go anywhere. Brem & Dipper left in the afternoon as they had some family function to go to so we said our goodbyes and promised to keep in touch.

At about 6, we once again braved the horrendous weather and headed to the main hall for the evening entertainment. We started with a sing-along where the 'stars' lip-synched to popular country and western songs. The theme of the night was Mexico so many were in Mexican clothing and as no food was provided in the evening, the women took along sandwiches, potato crisps etc. One guy dressed as Uncle Sam mimed to 'God Bless the USA', a very corny song about how proud they were to be American. It brought the house down and everyone was standing with hands on hearts or waving their arms in the air. I couldn't help wishing that there was that level of patriotism in our country - the nearest we get is 'Abide With Me' sung at the beginning of the soccer cup final!

Anyway, it was another fun night though we got absolutely soaked on the way back to the RV and arrived to find we were parked in a lake! After a couple of renditions of "The Rain in Raine" we settled down for the night.

The Brits and the Cajuns at the Crawfish Rally

Jean's story of the Crawfish Rally - my comments in italics
Another road trip. We left New Orleans at about 10.30 and headed over to Raine, Louisiana to the Cajun Crawfish Rally. There were lots of RVs at the site and the weather was worsening the closer we got. We registered for the rally and were parked in a huge field, and we met up with Brem & Dipper and several other Cajuns we'd met last time we were there. A mass lunch of crawfish etouffe, cole slaw and corn had been prepared which we all enjoyed.
After a while, we went back to the RV to get ready for the evening. The storm had now broken with a vengeance but as ever, at least the rain was warm - we rolled up our trouser legs and paddled over to the dance. It was lots of fun and outside the rain was horizontal but we all agreed it had been a great night.

Our table won big time--Jean got a Walmart gift certificate and I got a wine cooler!

John and Angelo hit the dance floor....