Eccentric Wisconsin

On the road again. We headed off from Indiana, leaving the land of motorhomes, to southwestern Wisconsin. Jane’s nephew, George, and his wife just opened a campground on the bluff of the Mississippi River just outside Cassville. The campsite was still pretty rough; they just opened on Memorial Day this year. With a bit of landscaping and some leveling, it should be a good site. His real business was the tavern/restaurant- filled with locals every night. They made a great cheese burger and it was a pleasure not to have to cook dinner every night.

We spent the first day on the bike- the roads in this corner of Wisconsin were heaven made for motorcycling. The terrain was unaffected by the glaciers that flattened the rest of the Midwest and the pavement is baby-butt smooth. We drove into Dickeyville and saw Holy Ghost Park. The park was created by Father Mathias Wernerus in the 1920’s from material collected from all over the world. It was filled with altars and shrines made of concrete encrusted with glass, pottery shards and fossils – with commands like “Faith, Peace, Chastity, Mildness, Long Suffering, Fortitude. We drove by the world’s largest “M”. It was the work of students from the Wisconsin Mining School in the late 1930’s.

Wisconsin may be the capital of Eccentric America. Nothing, however, comes close to “The House on the Rock. It was built by an eccentric, wannabee architect back in the 1940's. It is perched on the pinnacle of a huge rock. He built the original studio by carrying stones and mortar up to the site in a basket strapped to his back. Eventually, he built a ramp through the treetops to make the site more accessible. He built a 14 room "hump-a-rama" house- low ceilings, dim lighting, carpeted surfaces instead of furniture. He built the "Infinity Room"- a 218 foot, glass walled, cantilevered room with 3000 windows that juts out over the valley - fifteen stories straight down. Over time, he kept adding on to the house- expanding to include rooms for his collections- doll houses, suits of armor, a one million piece miniature circus, giant pipe organs. He even has a carousel with 240 animals and room filled with the old European mechanical orchestras.

While not much could come close to that bizarre site- we visited the St John’s Mine- which must hold the title of “worst place to work”. It was an old lead mine and we got to see the original mine and imagine life for these Welch miners…picking for lead veins in tiny caves and hand-carrying out the heavy metal in buckets.

We spent an afternoon in Dubuque-saw the old Victorian homes overlooking the Mississippi and the horrifying casino on the river. George introduced us to his friends who own a custom bike shop. They do a spectacular job of both building and converting bikes. John got to re-connect with his old buddy, Horton. He met us for lunch and joined us for another highlight- the AMA Amateur Hill Climbing Championship. What a show! 500 feet at an amazing incline- and quite a few of the bikers made it up the hill. After a few hours at the Hill Climb, Horton brought his potato gun back to the campgrounds and shot a few potatoes into the corn fields.

Billboard: “You drink, you drive; You crash, you die; your brother-in-law gets your bike …Bummer”